Marqués de Vargas Selección Privada 2016

Varietal Mazuelos are very rare in Rioja, but when they're as good as this you wonder why. Late picked from poor, stony soils that face north-west, this is smooth, elegant and very elegant, with none of the grape's occasional rusticity, gentle oak spice, silky tannins and savoury red berry fruit. Wonderful stuff. 2021-30

Ripe yet very fresh fruit profile with a lovely smoky reduction. Very juicy style with plenty of fruit on the palate and great integration of oak. A great example of what a modern-style reserva can achieve. Tannins are present yet velvety and the finish is very persistent.

A creamy, full-bodied Rioja, loaded with vanilla, walnuts, red plums and cherries. There is a touch of savory balsamic fruit and tobacco, too. Very tight, but polished on the palate, with quite a long finish. Drinkable now, but better after 2023.