Taboadella Grande Villae Branco 2019

Aromas of dried lemon, spiced apple, peach pit, cloves and smoked almonds. Full-bodied with fresh acidity and a textured, phenolic palate. Burnt-lemon notes on the finish. Drink or hold.

The 2019 Branco Grande Villae (Grand Village, an analogy to a grand cru) is a Grande Reserva, although that is not on the label. It is mostly a field blend from old vines (40+ years, with principal grapes like Bical, Esgana Cão and Gouveio) plus 20% Encruzado and 20% Bical, all aged for 12 months in new French oak. Very dry, it comes in at 13.6% alcohol. The grapes other than the field blend are approximately 30 years in age. This starts off handling the wood beautifully. It is well integrated. This is the only white here that shows some intensity, a bit of a tightly wound demeanor and a finish with some grip. That's great to see, but the price point to get there is a bit daunting, and this lacks something in serious distinction for the context of that price category. Still, this is a very classy wine, perfect for the table and something that is well balanced. It should age for at least a decade.