Ignios Orígenes Vijariego Negro 2016

The 2016 Ignios Orígenes Vijariego Negro had a chameleonic nose that moved from the spicy and peppery volcanic stone to a very minty and high-pitched note and then to a smoky black tea (Lapsang Souchong?) and a core of bright and fresh berry fruit. It's spicy, mineral and wild, a wine of strong personality, changing from vintage to vintage and by the minute in the glass. This is world-class juice. 863 bottles produced. It matured in a 600-liter oak barrel.