Günther Steinmetz Brauneberger Juffer Auslese 2006 50 cl.

The Steinmetz “two star” 2006 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese A.P. #16 features a sappy plum, pear, and melon concentrate, honey-glazed and satisfyingly pure, with hints of tart fruit skin and bitter-sweet grapefruit rind and apricot kernel adding interest. Notes of caramel and a dried fruit tendency influence the finish, with nut oil and illusive, savory mineral notes chiming in as well. What this lacks in exuberance and refreshment as displayed by the “one star” Spatlese, it more than makes up for in its fascinating, richly-satisfying, understated complexity. This relatively dry Auslese will reward 20 or more years of cellaring and almost certainly reveal further facets in the process.