Garmón 2018

The only wine they produce here, the 2018 Garmón is pure Tempranillo from different villages with a continental climate, old organically and biodynamically farmed vineyards that are not certified. It fermented by village with indigenous yeasts and matured in 225-liter French oak barrels for 20 months. This reflects the cooler character of the year, and they maybe used a little more used oak (50/50). The wine is fresher, has a lot more acidity and is aromatic and open, with a better balance without losing structure. This is the finest wine they have produced so far, and they told me this is the kind of wine they wanted to make in Ribera del Duero, the Mauro style with finesse and elegance. It brought me to the character of the wines from yesteryear, rustic but with elegance, full of character and with energy and aging potential. 50,120 bottles produced. It was bottled in September 2020.

It's easy to forget that the first vintage of Garmón was as recent as 2014, such is the quality of the wine, but the García family's long-standing association with the region has certainly contributed to its success. Picked ten days later than the 2017, this is my favourite release yet, combining vineyards between 30 and 100 years' old in Anguix, Baños de Valdearado, Moradillo and Tubilla. Chalky, balanced and effortlessly refined, with notes of red berries, fennel and spice, subtle oak and thrilling freshness. A truly great Ribera. 2022-35.