Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva 2012

This dark, relatively tight-knit Rioja proves that the Gran Reserva category doesn't just indicate the supremely well-aged, relaxed and reposeful style of Rioja, but can also serve to draw drinkers' attention to outstanding wines of density and tenacity which still have a way to run along their potential ageing trajectories. Look out for dark, urgent fruits here sweetened and back-lit by cunningly angled oak, with intense, deep, fresh and searching flavours in which the 10% of Graciano seems to be working overtime. A Rioja of innate drama. Drink 2019-2028.

Lots of vanilla, chocolate-coated blackberries, cedar, tobacco and glazed dark cherries. Medium to full body, succulent tannins and a fruit-driven but tangy finish. Drink in 2021.