Conde Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria Viñedo Singular 2020

Ludicrously under-priced given its quality, this is one of the best white wines in Rioja and ages brilliantly too, Viura from an 8.5-hectare parcel of limestone at 480 metres supplies the raw material here, fermented in new French oak. Spicy, focused and beautifully judged, with fresh lemon acidity and lots of extract and concentration. 2023-35.