Tapafugas 2018

The one wine that is different each year, the 2018 Tapafugas is a pink “clarete” produced with red and white grapes—Garnacha and Albillo, approximately 50% of each—that were fermented together. In the first vintage, 2017, it was produced with grapes from Navalcarnero, in the province of Madrid but far away from Gredos. It's very difficult to ferment Garnacha and Albillo together, because they ripen at very different times—Albillo extremely early and Garnacha much, much later, depending on the location. But they managed to do it in the exceptional 2018 vintage by using the latest Albillo and the earliest Garnacha (which they have not managed in any other vintage so far). The full clusters were foot trodden for three days, then pressed and put in a 2,500-liter oak foudre to ferment and then mature for eight months. It has almost Riesling-like levels of alcohol (low) and acidity (high), which gives it a sharp personality, a little in the style of l'Anglore. It's complex and tasty and has a vibrant palate. It's a characterful pink, with pungent flavors and a super tasty finish. Delicious! I hope they are able to make this wine again one of these years... 3,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2019. - Luis Gutiérrez.