Muros Antigos Alvarinho 2017

The 2017 Alvarinho Muros Antigos comes in at 13% alcohol. Concentrated, but not overly expressive just now, this is a solid Alvarinho that just seems a bit lacking compared to some recent examples of late. It opened a bit stolid, especially when tasted next to its Contacto sibling this issue. I suspect that is more because it was very unevolved and closed than because it is actually lacking. This might actually be the better wine. Remember that you are dealing with a serious white here, not a stereotypical Vinho Verde. So, we talk in terms of development and aging, not just "drink me now." As I came back to it, as it had aired out and warmed up, it suddenly showed superb tension on the finish to go with its very nice concentration for this level. This ultimately seemed impressive. Will it continue to evolve? Let's be a little conservative right now. It will certainly show better at the end of this summer than at the beginning. In the meanwhile, you can hardly go wrong at the modest price. - Mark Squires.