Monte Real Gran Reserva Edición Limitada 1998

Floral cherry, raspberry and aged wood aromas are elegant and mature. This Rioja is in regal condition, with smooth tannins and integrated acidity. Dried cherry, red plum, herbs and vanilla create a classic Rioja flavor profile. A supple, long finish puts this in perfect drinking shape, which doesn't mean it can't last another through 2025 or so.

The 1998 Monte Real Gran Reserva Selección Limitada has nothing to do with the regular Monte Real Gran Reserva from the same vintage that I tasted almost three years ago. It's hard to know what these old wines really are. Even if the label says 100% Tempranillo, that was not what was usually done at the time; I sensed aromas that made me think of sweet Garnacha fruit like cherries in liqueur, and developed aromas that made it feel quite heady. The palate is ultra polished, with fully resolved tannins and good acidity. 1998 was far from being a renowned vintage and for such challenging year, this is quite remarkable. A good opportunity to get a fully mature old Rioja at an affordable price. 19,987 bottles.

There is still some of this venerable Gran Reserva on the market, apparently, and it's the kind of thing that traditionalists will love, with ageing in America oak, savoury, slightly farmyardy aromas, refreshing acidity and some leathery, gamey complexity. 2020-23.