Curtimenta Alvarinho 2017

The 2017 Curtimenta is all Alvarinho aged for nine months in used, light-toast French oak. It comes in at 12.8% alcohol and with 6.9 grams of total acidity. Probably the most intense of Mendes' submissions, this is also packed with fruit that is well supported by the wine's considerable energy. The wood is most noticeable in texture and structure rather than in flavor. Tight and more than a little gripping on the finish, it lingers nicely. The Expressões is sexier and the Parcela Única seems richer, but this may have the most power and best structure. It may also be better balanced than the Parcela Única, at least today. Indeed, this Curtimenta came into even better balance the next day. It's a close decision as to which of the upper-level trio I preferred this issue. They are all pretty wonderful, but I'd lean to this as the best of the trio this issue (although relatively unevolved). Still, pick 'em. Buy them all. Wait ten years. Argue about them then. In that regard, the structure here suggests plenty of room to improve. The final answer may change or flip-flop—as they age. Sourced from vines between 20 and 25 years in age, there were just 4,500 bottles produced. - Mark Squares.