Contacto Alvarinho 2017

The 2017 Alvarinho Contacto comes in at 13% alcohol. Gorgeously balanced, bright, intense and expressive, this has tension on the finish and a focused feel. Showing a hint of lemon on the finish early on, it revels in its fine acidity as it airs out. If it was tight early on, it was far better some six hours later (recorked and in the fridge, of course). With air and a little more warmth, it seemed better balanced and transparent, very precise, but still intense. The juicy finish dribbled the fine fruit over the palate. This is not always the best expression of Alvarinho, but the combination of concentration and structure typically makes it a great bargain. As with everything Anselmo makes, this will age well, perhaps better than anticipated. This looks like a fine year for it. A high-quality workhorse for Mendes, there were 120,000 bottles produced. - Mark Squires.