Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2017 JC Bessin

The superlative 2017 Chablis Vieilles Vignes wafts from the glass with aromas of waxy citrus fruit, green apple, honeycomb, white flowers and smoke. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with superb depth and concentration, racy acids and a long, precise finish. Bessin ruefully observed that it was produced from yields of less than 20 hectoliters per hectare, but no doubt the small crop also helps to account for its quality. It isn't easy to find a better rendition of the appellation, and this comes warmly recommended.